Noisette of wild borders Roe Deer, Sauce Poivrade & Dauphine Potato

Recipe by Stevie McLaughlin, Head Chef at Restaurant Andrew Fairlie.

Roe deer / Saddle: 16 tasting menu portions.

Ingredients

1 x 2kg Roe Deer saddle
Light olive oil / unsalted butter
Thyme & Rosemary sprigs
1 clove garlic
Fine sea salt & peppermill

Equipment

Non-stick frying pan
Tin foil / thin butcher’s string
Sharp scissors / boning knife

Prep and Storage

Carefully remove the loin & fillets from the saddle – remove all the silver skin and any fat from the loins – discard the silver skin and keep the fillets safe for a delicious seasonal tartar canape – the loin we will use for our dish.

Remove all the meat from in between the ribs and chop that meat into approximately 2cm pieces – keep this for making the sauce poivrade.

Lay a double layer of tin foil onto a clean flat surface – the tin foil should be 10cm longer than the loins – lay a single loin onto the tin foil then roll it tightly into a long thin sausage that is completely encased in the tin foil – twist each end of the tin foil to form a neat and tight seal – using short lengths of the string tie them round the tin foil and venison neatly & tightly at 5cm intervals – chill the tied loin until needed.

To Cook the Venison

Remove the Roe Deer loin from the fridge and cut the portions you require – each portion will be approximately 5cm long – season the cut ends with salt & pepper and allow the ‘Noisettes’ to come to room temperature.

Over a medium high flame heat a non-stick frying pan.

Add 2 tbsps of the oil and allow it to heat until almost smoking – carefully add the Roe Deer cut side down into the oil and allow it to caramelise golden & evenly – turn the noisette and repeat the process on the other cut side – all in this should take approximately 3 ½ minutes. Carefully remove the noisette from the pan then carefully remove the tin foil and string – discard the tin foil and string – return the Roe Deer to the pan with a little fresh oil and a few small knobs of butter – add the herb & garlic and allow the butter to turn nutty and golden – Roll the noisettes carefully in the nutty butter for a further few minutes until all the sides are nicely caramelised – remove the Roe Deer noisette from the pan and lightly re-season all over with salt & pepper – leave the Roe Deer to rest & relax in a warm place for a few minutes before serving.

Poivrade Sauce

550g chopped meaty trimmings from ribcage.

40ml light olive oil

175g 1cm diced mirepoix (shallot / carrot / celery)

200ml ruby port

225ml red wine

10g crushed black peppercorns

6 plump bruised juniper berries

440ml veal jus

Red currant jelly

To Cook the Sauce

Put a heavy bottomed cast iron pan over a medium to high heat – add the oil and allow it to almost smoke – add the meaty trimmings to the oil and brown the meat evenly – add the mirepoix and cook together with the meaty trimmings – allow the mirepoix edges to lightly caramelise then add all the port – boil the port until there is a syrup left in the pan - add half the red wine and reduce by ¾ - now add the remaining red wine and reduce by ¾ again.

At this stage add half the peppercorns and all the juniper. Add the veal jus and a teaspoon of red currant jelly – cook on a gently simmer for 2-3 minutes.

Correct the seasoning and add a little more of the crushed peppercorns if needed.

Push the sauce through a fine chinois using the back of a ladle then carefully strain this through a damp muslin into a clean sauce pan – keep the sauce covered and warm to serve.

Dauphine Potato (choux pastry & mashed potato)

600g baked Rooster potato – flesh pushed through a ricer To cook the Potato

Weigh 600g of baked Rooster flesh (pushed through a ricer) into a food mixer bowl – add 300g of warm choux pastry to the riced potato – season the mix with salt, pepper and a few grates of fresh nutmeg – on a slow speed with a paddle attachment – gently but thoroughly combine everything together.

Fill a deep fat fryer with vegetable oil and pre-heat to 170 degrees C.

Weigh the dough into 25g shapes then neatly roll the shapes into evenly formed balls.

Carefully add the balls to the hot oil and fry evenly until all are golden brown on the outside – they will be fluffy, delicious and hot in the middle!

Tip the fried balls onto clean kitchen paper, sprinkle with soft flaky sea salt and serve at once.